I checked my watch; it is 15 mins
before Noon, my train entered into Mahoba railway station. I took my backpack
and step down in the platform. Mahoba – a small, less crowded railway station
in Uttar Pradesh hardly 150 KM away from Chitrakoot. Chitrakoot, where Lord Rama was in his exile-
leave that story for some other time.
Travelling from Kolkata, that too
in a crowded sleeper class (needless to say how dirty they are) I am already
exhausted , but I can’t take rest now as my destination is not Mahoba-I am
going to Khajuraho- which will take another approximately 2 hours bus journey
from here. Khajuraho – a name always excited me from my childhood. History and
our archeologist are always silent about who built those famous temples. My
relationship with history might over in year 1995 (after class 10th
board exams) but always have a keen desire to visit Khajuraho. Khajuraho…..a
place before our history…place much prior to our imagination. Job
responsibility (in correct word, work-pressure) buried that desire for almost
10 years somewhere in the deepest corner in my heart. It is early summer of
2007 and my monthly official meeting in Kolkata got postpone for a week which
gave me opportunity to fulfill my teenaged dream- to visit Khajuraho.
“Excuse me, how far is Khajuraho
from here?” A white skinned girl asked me, when I am just outside the railway platform.
“Well- it’s around 70-80 KM from
here, you can go by taxi or by bus.” I replied remembering what I read at my
hotel cyber café in Kolkata by paying Rs.100 per hour.
“How far is the bus stop from here?”
“I am sorry, I don’t know. You
need to ask somebody else. I am also just another tourist like you” I replied, without
mentioning that I am also going to Khajuraho -because foreigners don’t trust us
(it’s not their mistake-but for our own reputation!). Thanking me she left.
“Sahab, kaha jana hain? “ An auto
driver asked me when I am just outside the station. It’s quite relaxing that
all auto drivers did not jump on me, which is a very common scene in almost all
tourist destinations in India.
“Bhai, bus stop mein drop kar do”
“Which bus stop? I mean, where
you want to go, as there are 2 bus stops” Auto driver reply.
“ I need to go to Khajuraho, so
drop me at the bus stop where I can get bus for Khajuraho.”
“OK, OK !! That bus stop is around 2 KM away,
I will charge Rs.30. Chalna hain ?” Only 30 Rs. That too from a tourist who
does not have any idea how far is the bus stop. I thought but I only said
“Chalo”
“ Sahab, you made a mistake.”
Starting the auto, driver said. “What mistake?” I asked, back in my mind I start thinking- is Mahoba not a safe place
for tourist-will this fellow rob me.
“Sahab, you should get down at
Satna, not here, from Satna you could easily get taxi or bus for Khajuraho. Tourists
normally drop at Satna as communication is better from there”. He replied
displaying his teeth. Suddenly I love and respect the fellow-this fellow really
care for the outsiders-do not try to rob tourist like other places-even I have
seen how outsiders are harassed (correct word is, cheated)in my native place.
This fellow can be trusted.
“Bhai, lunch bhi karna hain ? Is
there any good hotel near the bus stop where I can have lunch”
“Sahab, there are lots of good
hotels near the bus stop”
Dropping me in front of the hotel
which is hardly 100 mt from bus stand, auto driver again reminds me to take my
back journey from Satna. After giving the fare, when I enter inside the hotel,
I saw that girl –who asked me about the Khajuraho bus stop, inside the
Restaurant (dhaba-to be precise). “Hi” she greets when she see me inside the
hotel.
“ “Hi”
“Where are you heading?” She
asks. “Well, I am also going to Khajuraho” I reply.
“Bus will leave at 3 PM, just now
I have enquired. Come and join here-plus help me selecting some non spicy-food”
She reply with a smile.
“Hi, I am Estrella, from Bilbao,
Spain”. She introduces. After introducing myself, I tell her “I think you know
two of my friends”
“Who?” She with a surprise note.
“Arantxa Sánchez Vicario and Rafael Nadal” I
reply with a very serious note, while going through the menu card. She paused
for few seconds (to understand)- then burst into laughter. “Oh man !! You are
damm funny !! Let’s order as I am starve”
Two folk singers after seeing us
(definitely not me, but for the white skinned madam) started singing some folk
songs outside the Restaurant. Their voice are very sweet as well as the song
(even though I can’t understand). “What they are singing about?” Estrella asks.”Folk
songs” My safe reply.
“That I know ! But about what?”
Now I am on the back foot (as I have not understood
a single word). Restaurant Manager rescues me (as he was also nearby,
definitely not for me but for his white-skinned guest!!)”They are singing story
of Alha and Udal – two famous warriors of Chandels”.
“ Alha and Udal ?” This time
Estrella asks. “Yes Madam, Alha and Udal were greatest warriors at their time,
just like Bhim and Arjun. They had defeated Prithviraj Chauhan many times and
never lost any battle” Manager replied. Now this is interesting. I call up the
folk singers and gave them a fifty rupees note, they take the note with
disappointment (which clearly visible at their faces) as they were expecting a
dollar or two but ignoring that I ask them “What is the story of Alha and Udal?
Can you tell us”
“Sahab, it’s a very long story
and it will take hours to complete the story. We need to catch the bus for
Khajuraho at 3 PM. So pls excuse us”
I understand this is my fifty
rupees note affect-Damm they are testing my negotiation skill-ok-but they don’t
know that negotiation is my bread and butter.
“Time is not a problem, we are
also going to Khajuraho .You can complete your story before we reach Khajuraho.I
will buy you both 2 tickets for Khajuraho ,plus another 50 bucks” I open the
negotiation while back of my mind I start calculating – 2 bus tickets Rs. 40
plus Rs.50 as tip….total Rs.90….Not a very bad deal.
Both of them look at each other-confuse,
not sure what to say, but I understand this is the right time to give the final
stroke-“Moreover, if Madam happy with your story, she might give you something
extra.” My profession taught me pretty well how easily people fall for so
called EXTRAs.
With a hope for extra Dollar or
two, folk singers started the story of Alha, Udal and Chandel Dynesty…..
“Alha Udal bade ladaiya jinse
haar gayi talwar” Folk singers started the story. Estella looks at me as she is
not able to understand what they said. I understand now I need to translate,
that too a Spanish. Merci!! For the
first time I hate a girl’s company that too a foreigner!! “Alha and Udal were
such great fighters that even swords were defeated by them” I explain. Folk
singers continued….
Alma and Udal were two sons of Dassraj,
a general in army of Chandel King Parmal of Mahoba. While Alma was elder one,
younger Udal born after 6 months after Dassraj was killed by King Baghela of Bandhavgarh
(Princely state of Rewa) .Mother Devala Devi regarded Udal as bad luck and
wanted to abandon him. But when queen (eventually who was a sister of Devala Devi) heard this, she adopted young
Udal and bought him up along with her own son Brahma. King Parmal sent Alha and Udal, along with his
son Brahma, Malkhan and Deva to a good teacher to learn war tactics. When
education of the five young boys completed, their Guru was amazed as all of
them became great soldiers with their unique war skills. When they come back
from their training, queen gave a condition that whoever will kill a tiger for her;
she will regard him as the greatest warriors among them. All the brothers went
to the jungle to kill a tiger for their mother. Till the evening when they were
not able to find a single tiger, they decided to come back to the Palace. But young
Udal did not agreed, so leaving him behind others came back. After searching
for many hours Udal able to find a tiger kill him with a sharp blow by his
sword. When he came back with the dead tiger, queen awarded him a horse named
“Betula”.
When Udal came to know that their
father and uncle’s chopped heads are still hanging in a tree at Bandhavgarh,all
the five brothers attack Bandhavgarh to take their avenge. King Parmal
appointed Alha as Chief of army and permitted them to attack Bandhavgarh. Udal,
riding on his horse “ Betula”(as it means flying horse)jump over the enemy
while Alma started crushing enemies riding on his elephant. King Baghela was
killed and Alha came to Mahoba with the head of King Baghela.
That was not an end but beginning
of Alma and Udal era. Alma and Udal became invincible and started acquiring
more and more states and expanded their kingdoms near Prithviraj Chouhan’s kingdom.
Conflict between Chandels and Chouhan became unavoidable. Sirsa Fort which was
acquired by Prithviraj Chouhan from Chandels, now with the rising power,Chandels
wanted it back. King Parmal was not at all agreed to go for open war against
powerful Prithviraj Chouhan but after continuous persuasion from young Malkhan,
he agreed for the war. This time again, Alma was given the charge of entire
army. Alma sent his messenger to Parash Chouhan (many people confused as
Prithviraj Chouhan), to evacuate the fort, which Parash Chouhan refused and
agreed for war. This time again Alma and Udal attacked Sirsa fort ferociously
and severely wounded Parash Chouhan ran away after 7 days, surrendering the
fort to the Chandels. After this glorified win Chandels territory expanded up to
Bundelkhand. Poets started writing poems about Alma and Udal, entire nation
start respecting them, even King Parmal started respecting their opinion. In
one sentence – Alma and Udal became legends.
Then what happened –why they were
thrown out from Mahoba-Who was Jaichand-Did Alma and Udal ever returned to
Mahoba ?
Chapter 2
It is almost 2.30 PM,so we
(means me and Estella, along with the
folk singers) went to the bus stand. When I stepped inside the bus my jaws opened.
OMG !! Is this what they call bus? There are not even a single glass in the
widows, all are broken, when I look at the roof, I was about to faint. So many holes
that someone easily can count stars at night. When I look inside the bus, there
are more numbers of goats and chickens than human being. Bus conductor,
understanding my situation (plus I am accompanied with a firangee !!),arrange
me 2 seats in the drivers cabin. Actually I never preferred to sit in driver’s
cabin (‘cos of irritating engine sounds) but bus conductor displaying his dirty teeth explained “ Sir, you better sit inside the cabin, Look
at the sky, it will rain at any minute and we don’t want any of our foreign
guest get wet and fall sick ”. So I understand driver cabin is VIP class as I
have seen one bettered dressed person also sitting , later I come to know he is a school teacher
who teaches history at Mahoba (still date I appreciate his inputs, which helped
to get the real pictures out of the fairy tales of Alma and Udal). We 3 sat
down on the seat which meant for actually 2 people. Both the folk singers sat
down on the dirty floor of the bus. Bus driver started the ignition and the bus
come to life with most irritating sound I have ever heard. Engine sound was ten
times worst than the sound of small city buses with nose in Guwahati 25 years
back (specially Kachari-noonmati route side) “Let’s start the story” I asked
both the folk singers as nothing much to do among goats , chickens and
horrified engine noise.
Rising of Alma and Udal influences
in Chandel kingdom dissatisfied many people at the King Pramal courtyard; most
dissatisfied person was their own uncle Mahil, who was one of the advisers of
king Parmal. Mahil made all possible tricks to remove from Alha and Udal from
Mahoba kingdom so that he can maintain his own supremacy inside the kingdom. He
intimated King Parmal that his spies have informed that Alha is conspiring to become
king of Mahoba by removing King Parmal and for that purpose Alha bought new
breed of horses also. Hearing this King Parmal became furious and without
listening to any explanation from Alha, he ordered Alha and Udal to leave Mahoba
with their belongings. Disheartened Alha
and Udal, left Mahoba, along with their mother without taking any wealth except
their swords, as they believed sword is the biggest wealth for a soldier. When
the army of Mahoba heard this, they insist Alha, that he should go for war with
King Parmal along with their support. But Alha refused as he did not wanted any
mutiny inside Mahoba and left silently with his brother and mother.
King Jaichand of Kannujj, whose daughter
Samyukta (Sanyogita or Sanjukta, varied as per pronunciation) eloped by
Prithviraj Chouhan, heard that foolish king Parmal had thrown out Alha and Udal
from his kingdom, he welcomed them with open arms, as main intention of King
Jaichand was to take revenge to Prithviraj Chouhan for his insults,which was
only possible with the help of great
warriors like Alha and Udal only. When Prithviraj Chouhan came to know that
Alha and Udal have left Mahoba and there is no one to lead the army of Mahoba,
he sent 50000 soldiers under Chamunda Rai to capture Mahoba. Many people said
that this information (absence of Alha and Udal) was passed to Prithviraj
Chouhan by Mahil (in whose conspiracy Alha and Udal need to leave Mahoba) as he
wanted to be the king of Mahoba with the help of Chouhans(history is silent on
this).When young prince Brahma come to know about the aggression of Chouhan’s
army, he asked his father King Parmal to call Alha and Udal, so that they can
face the huge army of Chouhans. King Parmal understood his mistake and
requested Alha and Udal to come back to Mahoba and lead his army against
Chauhans. Alha and Udal also agreed and they returned to Mahoba, along with
25000 Soldiers of King Jaichand. They attacked of Chamunda Rai’s huge army and after
3 days of war Chouhans compelled to retreat after losing a huge portion of
their army. Again Alha and Udal became a part of fairy tales in Chandel
Kingdom.
After that war, Alha and Udal won many wars
for their King. Many historians say that Alha, Udal along with their 3 brothers
(cousins) had won 52 battles together out of which 22 battles won by Udal alone.
After being defeated in many
battles, Prithviraj Chouhan, gave the hand of his daughter Bella to Price
Brahma and offered truce with the Chandels. But it was a war trick of
Prithviraj Chouhan. While Chandels were busy for the marriage of Prince Brahma,
Prithviraj Chouhan secretly restructured his army and built up a huge force. As
per his plan, after marriage ,when he regained his strength takes back Bella to
Delhi and refused to send her back. Now, for Chandels it became issue about
their prestige. Alma, after discussing with the king Parmal, decided to attack
Delhi and released Bella.
Delhi- capital of Prithviraj
Chouhan-capital of most powerful king at that time – But under the command of
Alma, Chandel army march to delhi along with Uday and Malkhan. For Chandels
this war was not for survival nor for any territory –but for their prestige-for
500 years old rich Chandel culture – on the other hand for Prithviraj Chouhan
it was a war for his survival – his supremacy in India.
Chapter 3
As predicted by the bus
conductor, it started raining, when I looked back side I found almost all the
passengers get wet but still they didn’t react anything as if nothing had happened.
Surprised Estella exclaims “Oh my god!! What happen!!” “Relax madam, nothing
new. It happens here every day and everyone is habituated.” Bus conductor
replied lighting his bidi. Noise of goats and chicken unbearable, but expect we
two, me and Estella, for rest of the people everything was very much normal.
Driver eyes are fixed forward, as he is least bother what’s going on at his
back.
The school teacher, who was
sharing the seat with us, said “Actually transportation from Mahoba to
Khajuraho is a big problem. Though Khajuraho attract many tourists, mainly
foreigners, every year but development in Khajuraho is very pathetic. There is
no high school, forget college. You must appreciate people of Khajuraho, they
always welcomed outsiders (tourist) with open arms. In this place you can see actual
Atithi Devo Bhava”. After a pause with a smile he said “Even many young boys in
Khajuraho, who does not have any formal education, are having foreign
girlfriends.” I am shocked. “It means in khajuraho there are lots of firangi
bahus “I said.
“Do you really think, any foreign girl who
roam around the world alone, will marry an uneducated guy? It might happen in
hindi movies but in reality no. Yup they fall in love. Many girls keep in touch
with their boyfriends even after they leave India, through internet, but after
few months both of them find someone else.” When he saw disbelieve in my eyes
he said ”I understand it’s hard for you to believe, anyhow you guys are going
there so you check at any internet cafe in Khajuraho, after 2 -3 PM you will
not be able to get seat. You will find, all young guys talking to their
Girlfriends using headphones.” He continued “Anyway you are going to Khajuraho
so you yourself can find out the truth. But I think you guys are interested in
Alha and Udal story. So can I give you a better picture as folksingers make
only fairytales without respecting what actually happened in history?”
“Why we will mind? It will be our
privilege to know actually what had happened.” I and Estella said together. He
started what had happened to Alha and Udal, in English, (thanks god, this time I
need not to translate to Estella).
Mahoban army spited into 3
sections – one section under Alha’s command at rare while rest 2 section under
Udal and Prince Brahma, from left and right respectively attack huge army of
Prithviraj Chouhan. Prithviraj Chouhan himself commanded in the war gave a
clear picture how crucial was the war for him for survival.
Udal was unstoppable on that day.
First he attacked Chamunda Rai, defeating him he attacked Pudir, another
general of Prithviraj Chouhan, defeating him, he attacked Sanjam Rai, and
defeated him Then unstoppable Udal attacked Prithviraj Chouhan. In the mean
time, both the sections of Udal and Prince Brahma’s entire regiment, which was
out numbered in front of Chouhan’s army, was completely destroyed. Alone Udal,
without the support from any one , fought with Prithviraj Chouhan and injured
him badly, half-dead Prithviraj Chouhan fall down on the battle field and lost
his sense. When Chamunda Rai (whose life Udal spared being Brahmin) saw that
Udal going to kill Prithviraj Chouhan, to save Prithviraj Chouhan, he stabbed
Udal from the back side and kill him. Both the regiments under Udal and Brahma were
vanished (killed or ran away). When Alha, who was at the rear part of the
battle field with a small troop, heard the death of Udal, to take vengeance
attacked the huge army of Prithviraj Chouhan with the available handful of
soldiers. After that Chouhan army saw Alha’s bravery. They saw Alha fighting
every part of the battle field. Single handedly he killed many generals and
after fighting alone for hours, without any support, tired thirsty Alha fall
down on the battle field and fainted.
On the other side of the battle
field, vultures surrounded senseless alone Prithviraj Chouhan, injured by Udal.
Sanjam Rai, who was also badly injured near Prithviraj Chouhan, cut his own
flesh and feed the vultures so that they won’t harm Prithviraj Singh. When the
soldiers discovered Prithviraj Chouhan, they found Sajam Rai fed half of his body
fleshes to the vultures to save his king.
“What a story of scarifies!”
Estella said “But what happened to Alha”
“Madam, there are lots of
theories - one is that Saint Gorakh Nath
came to the battle field and took Alha along with him to Himalayas. Many say
that he was killed by Prithviraj Chouhan. Which one is correct I can’t tell
you”
“Such a great warrior, still we
European hardly knew about him. Hollywood made a movie on our Spanish Knight El
Cid in 1961 and entire world came to know about him. Why don’t you guys make a
movie on Alha and Udal, world will come to know about them.”Estella asks me.
What can I say to her? I am an
Indian, history lover but I have not heard about Alha-Udal. Most pathetic part
is nobody is bother to highlight this-They are alive only on folksongs-still
now we don’t know which is the correct story-Irony is no one bother even.
