IN THE LAND OF CHANDELS

I checked my watch; it is 15 mins before Noon, my train entered into Mahoba railway station. I took my backpack and step down in the platform. Mahoba – a small, less crowded railway station in Uttar Pradesh hardly 150 KM away from Chitrakoot.  Chitrakoot, where Lord Rama was in his exile- leave that story for some other time.

Travelling from Kolkata, that too in a crowded sleeper class (needless to say how dirty they are) I am already exhausted , but I can’t take rest now as my destination is not Mahoba-I am going to Khajuraho- which will take another approximately 2 hours bus journey from here. Khajuraho – a name always excited me from my childhood. History and our archeologist are always silent about who built those famous temples. My relationship with history might over in year 1995 (after class 10^th board exams) but always have a keen desire to visit Khajuraho. Khajuraho…..a place before our history…place much prior to our imagination. Job responsibility (in correct word, work-pressure) buried that desire for almost 10 years somewhere in the deepest corner in my heart. It is early summer of 2007 and my monthly official meeting in Kolkata got postpone for a week which gave me opportunity to fulfill my teenaged dream- to visit Khajuraho.

“Excuse me, how far is Khajuraho from here?” A white skinned girl asked me, when I am just outside the railway platform.

“Well- it’s around 70-80 KM from here, you can go by taxi or by bus.” I replied remembering what I read at my hotel cyber café in Kolkata by paying Rs.100 per hour.

“How far is the bus stop from here?”

“I am sorry, I don’t know. You need to ask somebody else. I am also just another tourist like you” I replied, without mentioning that I am also going to Khajuraho -because foreigners don’t trust us (it’s not their mistake-but for our own reputation!). Thanking me she left.

“Sahab, kaha jana hain? “ An auto driver asked me when I am just outside the station. It’s quite relaxing that all auto drivers did not jump on me, which is a very common scene in almost all tourist destinations in India.

“Bhai, bus stop mein drop kar do”

“Which bus stop? I mean, where you want to go, as there are 2 bus stops” Auto driver reply.

“ I need to go to Khajuraho, so drop me at the bus stop where I can get bus for Khajuraho.”

 “OK, OK !! That bus stop is around 2 KM away, I will charge Rs.30. Chalna hain ?” Only 30 Rs. That too from a tourist who does not have any idea how far is the bus stop. I thought but I only said “Chalo”

“ Sahab, you made a mistake.” Starting the auto, driver said. “What mistake?” I asked, back in my mind  I start thinking- is Mahoba not a safe place for tourist-will this fellow rob me.

“Sahab, you should get down at Satna, not here, from Satna you could easily get taxi or bus for Khajuraho. Tourists normally drop at Satna as communication is better from there”. He replied displaying his teeth. Suddenly I love and respect the fellow-this fellow really care for the outsiders-do not try to rob tourist like other places-even I have seen how outsiders are harassed (correct word is, cheated)in my native place. This fellow can be trusted.

“Bhai, lunch bhi karna hain ? Is there any good hotel near the bus stop where I can have lunch”

“Sahab, there are lots of good hotels near the bus stop”

Dropping me in front of the hotel which is hardly 100 mt from bus stand, auto driver again reminds me to take my back journey from Satna. After giving the fare, when I enter inside the hotel, I saw that girl –who asked me about the Khajuraho bus stop, inside the Restaurant (dhaba-to be precise). “Hi” she greets when she see me inside the hotel.

 “ “Hi”   

“Where are you heading?” She asks. “Well, I am also going to Khajuraho” I reply.

“Bus will leave at 3 PM, just now I have enquired. Come and join here-plus help me selecting some non spicy-food” She reply with a smile.

“Hi, I am Estrella, from Bilbao, Spain”. She introduces. After introducing myself, I tell her “I think you know two of my friends”

“Who?” She with a surprise note.

 “Arantxa Sánchez Vicario and Rafael Nadal” I reply with a very serious note, while going through the menu card. She paused for few seconds (to understand)- then burst into laughter. “Oh man !! You are damm funny !! Let’s order as I am starve”

Two folk singers after seeing us (definitely not me, but for the white skinned madam) started singing some folk songs outside the Restaurant. Their voice are very sweet as well as the song (even though I can’t understand). “What they are singing about?” Estrella asks.”Folk songs” My safe reply.

“That I know ! But about what?”

 Now I am on the back foot (as I have not understood a single word). Restaurant Manager rescues me (as he was also nearby, definitely not for me but for his white-skinned guest!!)”They are singing story of Alha and Udal – two famous warriors of Chandels”.

“ Alha and Udal ?” This time Estrella asks. “Yes Madam, Alha and Udal were greatest warriors at their time, just like Bhim and Arjun. They had defeated Prithviraj Chauhan many times and never lost any battle” Manager replied. Now this is interesting. I call up the folk singers and gave them a fifty rupees note, they take the note with disappointment (which clearly visible at their faces) as they were expecting a dollar or two but ignoring that I ask them “What is the story of Alha and Udal? Can you tell us”

“Sahab, it’s a very long story and it will take hours to complete the story. We need to catch the bus for Khajuraho at 3 PM. So pls excuse us”

I understand this is my fifty rupees note affect-Damm they are testing my negotiation skill-ok-but they don’t know that negotiation is my bread and butter.

“Time is not a problem, we are also going to Khajuraho .You can complete your story before we reach Khajuraho.I will buy you both 2 tickets for Khajuraho ,plus another 50 bucks” I open the negotiation while back of my mind I start calculating – 2 bus tickets Rs. 40 plus Rs.50 as tip….total Rs.90….Not a very bad deal.

Both of them look at each other-confuse, not sure what to say, but I understand this is the right time to give the final stroke-“Moreover, if Madam happy with your story, she might give you something extra.” My profession taught me pretty well how easily people fall for so called EXTRAs.

With a hope for extra Dollar or two, folk singers started the story of Alha, Udal and Chandel Dynesty…..

“Alha Udal bade ladaiya jinse haar gayi talwar” Folk singers started the story. Estella looks at me as she is not able to understand what they said. I understand now I need to translate, that too a Spanish. Merci!! For the first time I hate a girl’s company that too a foreigner!! “Alha and Udal were such great fighters that even swords were defeated by them” I explain. Folk singers continued….

Alma and Udal were two sons of Dassraj, a general in army of Chandel King Parmal of Mahoba. While Alma was elder one, younger Udal born after 6 months after Dassraj was killed by King Baghela of Bandhavgarh (Princely state of Rewa) .Mother Devala Devi regarded Udal as bad luck and wanted to abandon him. But when queen (eventually who was a sister  of Devala Devi) heard this, she adopted young Udal and bought him up along with her own son Brahma.  King Parmal sent Alha and Udal, along with his son Brahma, Malkhan and Deva to a good teacher to learn war tactics. When education of the five young boys completed, their Guru was amazed as all of them became great soldiers with their unique war skills. When they come back from their training, queen gave a condition that whoever will kill a tiger for her; she will regard him as the greatest warriors among them. All the brothers went to the jungle to kill a tiger for their mother. Till the evening when they were not able to find a single tiger, they decided to come back to the Palace. But young Udal did not agreed, so leaving him behind others came back. After searching for many hours Udal able to find a tiger kill him with a sharp blow by his sword. When he came back with the dead tiger, queen awarded him a horse named “Betula”.

When Udal came to know that their father and uncle’s chopped heads are still hanging in a tree at Bandhavgarh,all the five brothers attack Bandhavgarh to take their avenge. King Parmal appointed Alha as Chief of army and permitted them to attack Bandhavgarh. Udal, riding on his horse “ Betula”(as it means flying horse)jump over the enemy while Alma started crushing enemies riding on his elephant. King Baghela was killed and Alha came to Mahoba with the head of King Baghela.

That was not an end but beginning of Alma and Udal era. Alma and Udal became invincible and started acquiring more and more states and expanded their kingdoms near Prithviraj Chouhan’s kingdom. Conflict between Chandels and Chouhan became unavoidable. Sirsa Fort which was acquired by Prithviraj Chouhan from Chandels, now with the rising power,Chandels wanted it back. King Parmal was not at all agreed to go for open war against powerful Prithviraj Chouhan but after continuous persuasion from young Malkhan, he agreed for the war. This time again, Alma was given the charge of entire army. Alma sent his messenger to Parash Chouhan (many people confused as Prithviraj Chouhan), to evacuate the fort, which Parash Chouhan refused and agreed for war. This time again Alma and Udal attacked Sirsa fort ferociously and severely wounded Parash Chouhan ran away after 7 days, surrendering the fort to the Chandels. After this glorified win Chandels territory expanded up to Bundelkhand. Poets started writing poems about Alma and Udal, entire nation start respecting them, even King Parmal started respecting their opinion. In one sentence – Alma and Udal became legends.

Then what happened –why they were thrown out from Mahoba-Who was Jaichand-Did Alma and Udal ever returned to Mahoba ?

Chapter 2

It is almost 2.30 PM,so we (means  me and Estella, along with the folk singers) went to the bus stand. When I stepped inside the bus my jaws opened. OMG !! Is this what they call bus? There are not even a single glass in the widows, all are broken, when I look at the roof, I was about to faint. So many holes that someone easily can count stars at night. When I look inside the bus, there are more numbers of goats and chickens than human being. Bus conductor, understanding my situation (plus I am accompanied with a firangee !!),arrange me 2 seats in the drivers cabin. Actually I never preferred to sit in driver’s cabin (‘cos of irritating engine sounds) but bus conductor  displaying his dirty teeth explained  “ Sir, you better sit inside the cabin, Look at the sky, it will rain at any minute and we don’t want any of our foreign guest get wet and fall sick ”. So I understand driver cabin is VIP class as I have seen one bettered dressed person also sitting  , later I come to know he is a school teacher who teaches history at Mahoba (still date I appreciate his inputs, which helped to get the real pictures out of the fairy tales of Alma and Udal). We 3 sat down on the seat which meant for actually 2 people. Both the folk singers sat down on the dirty floor of the bus. Bus driver started the ignition and the bus come to life with most irritating sound I have ever heard. Engine sound was ten times worst than the sound of small city buses with nose in Guwahati 25 years back (specially Kachari-noonmati route side) “Let’s start the story” I asked both the folk singers as nothing much to do among goats , chickens and horrified engine noise.

Rising of Alma and Udal influences in Chandel kingdom dissatisfied many people at the King Pramal courtyard; most dissatisfied person was their own uncle Mahil, who was one of the advisers of king Parmal. Mahil made all possible tricks to remove from Alha and Udal from Mahoba kingdom so that he can maintain his own supremacy inside the kingdom. He intimated King Parmal that his spies have informed that Alha is conspiring to become king of Mahoba by removing King Parmal and for that purpose Alha bought new breed of horses also. Hearing this King Parmal became furious and without listening to any explanation from Alha, he ordered Alha and Udal to leave Mahoba with their belongings.  Disheartened Alha and Udal, left Mahoba, along with their mother without taking any wealth except their swords, as they believed sword is the biggest wealth for a soldier. When the army of Mahoba heard this, they insist Alha, that he should go for war with King Parmal along with their support. But Alha refused as he did not wanted any mutiny inside Mahoba and left silently with his brother and mother.

King Jaichand of Kannujj, whose daughter Samyukta (Sanyogita or Sanjukta, varied as per pronunciation) eloped by Prithviraj Chouhan, heard that foolish king Parmal had thrown out Alha and Udal from his kingdom, he welcomed them with open arms, as main intention of King Jaichand was to take revenge to Prithviraj Chouhan for his insults,which was only possible  with the help of great warriors like Alha and Udal only. When Prithviraj Chouhan came to know that Alha and Udal have left Mahoba and there is no one to lead the army of Mahoba, he sent 50000 soldiers under Chamunda Rai to capture Mahoba. Many people said that this information (absence of Alha and Udal) was passed to Prithviraj Chouhan by Mahil (in whose conspiracy Alha and Udal need to leave Mahoba) as he wanted to be the king of Mahoba with the help of Chouhans(history is silent on this).When young prince Brahma come to know about the aggression of Chouhan’s army, he asked his father King Parmal to call Alha and Udal, so that they can face the huge army of Chouhans. King Parmal understood his mistake and requested Alha and Udal to come back to Mahoba and lead his army against Chauhans. Alha and Udal also agreed and they returned to Mahoba, along with 25000 Soldiers of King Jaichand. They attacked of Chamunda Rai’s huge army and after 3 days of war Chouhans compelled to retreat after losing a huge portion of their army. Again Alha and Udal became a part of fairy tales in Chandel Kingdom.

 After that war, Alha and Udal won many wars for their King. Many historians say that Alha, Udal along with their 3 brothers (cousins) had won 52 battles together out of which 22 battles won by Udal alone.

After being defeated in many battles, Prithviraj Chouhan, gave the hand of his daughter Bella to Price Brahma and offered truce with the Chandels. But it was a war trick of Prithviraj Chouhan. While Chandels were busy for the marriage of Prince Brahma, Prithviraj Chouhan secretly restructured his army and built up a huge force. As per his plan, after marriage ,when he regained his strength takes back Bella to Delhi and refused to send her back. Now, for Chandels it became issue about their prestige. Alma, after discussing with the king Parmal, decided to attack Delhi and released Bella.

Delhi- capital of Prithviraj Chouhan-capital of most powerful king at that time – But under the command of Alma, Chandel army march to delhi along with Uday and Malkhan. For Chandels this war was not for survival nor for any territory –but for their prestige-for 500 years old rich Chandel culture – on the other hand for Prithviraj Chouhan it was a war for his survival – his supremacy in India.

Chapter 3

As predicted by the bus conductor, it started raining, when I looked back side I found almost all the passengers get wet but still they didn’t react anything as if nothing had happened. Surprised Estella exclaims “Oh my god!! What happen!!” “Relax madam, nothing new. It happens here every day and everyone is habituated.” Bus conductor replied lighting his bidi. Noise of goats and chicken unbearable, but expect we two, me and Estella, for rest of the people everything was very much normal. Driver eyes are fixed forward, as he is least bother what’s going on at his back.

The school teacher, who was sharing the seat with us, said “Actually transportation from Mahoba to Khajuraho is a big problem. Though Khajuraho attract many tourists, mainly foreigners, every year but development in Khajuraho is very pathetic. There is no high school, forget college. You must appreciate people of Khajuraho, they always welcomed outsiders (tourist) with open arms. In this place you can see actual Atithi Devo Bhava”. After a pause with a smile he said “Even many young boys in Khajuraho, who does not have any formal education, are having foreign girlfriends.” I am shocked. “It means in khajuraho there are lots of firangi bahus “I said.

 “Do you really think, any foreign girl who roam around the world alone, will marry an uneducated guy? It might happen in hindi movies but in reality no. Yup they fall in love. Many girls keep in touch with their boyfriends even after they leave India, through internet, but after few months both of them find someone else.” When he saw disbelieve in my eyes he said ”I understand it’s hard for you to believe, anyhow you guys are going there so you check at any internet cafe in Khajuraho, after 2 -3 PM you will not be able to get seat. You will find, all young guys talking to their Girlfriends using headphones.” He continued “Anyway you are going to Khajuraho so you yourself can find out the truth. But I think you guys are interested in Alha and Udal story. So can I give you a better picture as folksingers make only fairytales without respecting what actually happened in history?”

“Why we will mind? It will be our privilege to know actually what had happened.” I and Estella said together. He started what had happened to Alha and Udal, in English, (thanks god, this time I need not to translate to Estella).

Mahoban army spited into 3 sections – one section under Alha’s command at rare while rest 2 section under Udal and Prince Brahma, from left and right respectively attack huge army of Prithviraj Chouhan. Prithviraj Chouhan himself commanded in the war gave a clear picture how crucial was the war for him for survival.

Udal was unstoppable on that day. First he attacked Chamunda Rai, defeating him he attacked Pudir, another general of Prithviraj Chouhan, defeating him, he attacked Sanjam Rai, and defeated him Then unstoppable Udal attacked Prithviraj Chouhan. In the mean time, both the sections of Udal and Prince Brahma’s entire regiment, which was out numbered in front of Chouhan’s army, was completely destroyed. Alone Udal, without the support from any one , fought with Prithviraj Chouhan and injured him badly, half-dead Prithviraj Chouhan fall down on the battle field and lost his sense. When Chamunda Rai (whose life Udal spared being Brahmin) saw that Udal going to kill Prithviraj Chouhan, to save Prithviraj Chouhan, he stabbed Udal from the back side and kill him. Both the regiments under Udal and Brahma were vanished (killed or ran away). When Alha, who was at the rear part of the battle field with a small troop, heard the death of Udal, to take vengeance attacked the huge army of Prithviraj Chouhan with the available handful of soldiers. After that Chouhan army saw Alha’s bravery. They saw Alha fighting every part of the battle field. Single handedly he killed many generals and after fighting alone for hours, without any support, tired thirsty Alha fall down on the battle field and fainted.

On the other side of the battle field, vultures surrounded senseless alone Prithviraj Chouhan, injured by Udal. Sanjam Rai, who was also badly injured near Prithviraj Chouhan, cut his own flesh and feed the vultures so that they won’t harm Prithviraj Singh. When the soldiers discovered Prithviraj Chouhan, they found Sajam Rai fed half of his body fleshes to the vultures to save his king.

“What a story of scarifies!” Estella said “But what happened to Alha”

“Madam, there are lots of theories -  one is that Saint Gorakh Nath came to the battle field and took Alha along with him to Himalayas. Many say that he was killed by Prithviraj Chouhan. Which one is correct I can’t tell you”

“Such a great warrior, still we European hardly knew about him. Hollywood made a movie on our Spanish Knight El Cid in 1961 and entire world came to know about him. Why don’t you guys make a movie on Alha and Udal, world will come to know about them.”Estella asks me.

What can I say to her? I am an Indian, history lover but I have not heard about Alha-Udal. Most pathetic part is nobody is bother to highlight this-They are alive only on folksongs-still now we don’t know which is the correct story-Irony is no one bother even.